Bouldering competition rules reddit. Indoor climbing I roll with comp rules, totally fine.

Bouldering competition rules reddit. In my view this has three effects. " Please carefully read all the rules (under the “About” tab on the sub page) before posting. Top 5 climbers that year were professional climbers that had all climbed V15, so I'm pretty proud of that result, but more importantly I'm pretty familiar with the "Bouldering Project" competition style. In particular: (a) Climbers at the 3:30 mark realizing they don't have enough time to finish another go, then just shrugging and walking off (b) Climbers getting waved off a climb they could have finished if they'd had another 5 seconds If the intent is to make the timing more predictable I think a reasonable compromise would be This 18 YO athlete was made to climb the same boulder 3 times because of the judges' mistake at the Bouldering World Cup (Audio on for commentary) 203 votes, 37 comments. Who should win? According to current rules, it would be the one-top climber (in which case, make the zone worth 5) but I lean toward the four-zone climber (in which case, make the zone worth 7) Thoughts? A sub for fans of the mobile app "Redecor - Home Design Makeover. In a bouldering competition, what prevents the audience from giving hints to the athletes? As the title suggests, what happens if the audience cheering on their favorite athlete suddenly yells out useful hints? Or, more nefariously, what if there's one co-conspirator of an athlete that gives out hidden hints that aren't obvious to anyone else? 28 votes, 14 comments. Hence zero bonuses in the men’s finals and two boulders where there were moves that were physically impossible for climbers. Can someone explain the scoring of qualifiers please (I get t is a top and z is a zone, but I don’t get how someone got two tops and two zones on one Hey everyone, going to give this a go at my local bouldering tips. Cups and Cup events may carry the following additional designations: In my gym it's an unspoken rule that if you're not about to jump on a bouldering route you sit on the floor a ways back from the wall. Which is true, but I'd counter with the fact that using bolt holes can First time posting on Reddit and not sure if this is best as a post here, but what happens in the event of a complete tie in either IFSC World Cup bouldering or lead comps? Wasn’t easy to find in the rules doc 😅 For simplicity let’s say two athletes top all Obviously IFSC rules aren’t relevant to my climbing recreationally, I’m asking out of clarification for official comp rules The interesting part is that the selection criteria mentions IFSC pre-qualified male boulders may compete in the bouldering competition at Bern. 2, "the competitions in the Boulder and Lead disciplines" presumably means the individual-discipline competitions in Bern, not the BWC and LWC seasons. Last climb 30 mins to an hour before close. The competition consists of 8 more traditional indoor boulders for a qualifying round followed by a final with 4 more competition style boulders. Unless you're training to be a comp climber. V-0 - V-3 recreation range. Comps don't depend on grade. A lot of casual comps have an open round (everybody climbs like a normal session, but tracking how many attempts to finish the comp boulders you try) and then finals with a handful of climbers from each sex, where each person tries the/each boulder separately for a certain amount of time. If In this sense, starting in your 20s might mean you won't be competing on a national championship in bouldering. All those in authority, especially team officials, have a clear responsibility to sport to respect the technical officials I climb in a gym. The boulder scoring system drastically changed though, giving 25 points for a top, 3 points for a zone and a 0. The city of St. Close at (say) 11pm. Chat Channel and post-comp thread Schedule: Monday, 8 April: 09:00 Qualis (not streamed) Tuesday, 9 April: 12:00 Women's Semis 19:00 Women's Final Wednesday, 10 April: Updated schedule All times/dates are in local time UTC+8 Time zone converter Startlist Live scoring/results: Here Can you explain the rules you've been given, before people jump in here with the rules they've heard elsewhere that might not apply to your situation? Link to the comp/gym site with the rules? Nothings gonna be worse than somebody here putting a rule in your head that isn't actually a Go ahead and compete in the Intermediate category, even though the problems will be hard for you. Only problems in the right Straight up just want to know what type of music the IFSC uses during there bouldering competitions. Bouldering competition, does this scoring system makes sense to you? Hi all, My local gym is running a bouldering competition and I'm very intrigued by the scoring system that they're using. If you're interested in competition style climbing there are a ton of rules obviously and these can vary based on the governing organization (ifsc etc). There is slight possibility that under those blabla rules, she won't be that high on the bouldering ladder? But since she is the undisputed ace of Japanese females, I guess they will still send her to adequtely many world cups, so that she can practice for the Olympics. The 'rules' say you need to control your position on the wall before you can make a movement, but the whole sport is made up so do whatever feels right. All the bouldering comps I've been to have the same basic format. You may attempt the problems in any order, and don't have to try them all. 6K subscribers in the CompetitionClimbing community. 2, v7s under my belt but mostly just because they were set easy and were geared toward my style. For Redeem codes, see the pinned post at the top of this sub. 1. I can't find anywhere it says you have to be (or don't have to be) in a controlled or static position on the starting holds before moving on. Not sure if I should enter the: V2-v4 level Or V5-v7 level ? I am projecting v6 mostly at this point. What advice would you give to a newb showing up to their first competition? At the gym I climb at, there’s never usually volumes on the walls, not many anyways. The significance here is that there is a standardized rule set in which you have to complete the climb to earn points. I signed up for a local bouldering competition. In the week leading up to the comp focus more on your sleep, hydration, diet than hard training. You can also use volumes unless strictly told they’re off limits. Countries like Japan, Slovenia, and the USA are sending a unified combined team for boulder and lead. So maybe a compromise is in order, 3 minutes 30 seconds of climbing but if the climber is currently on the wall at that the emerging standard across most commercial gyms is either one piece of tape for both hands on one hold or two pieces of tape for hands on separate holds (replace "hold" with "natural feature/volume" for some starts) and feet wherever you want - although again a common standard is to have good placement for both feet unless it's a contrived pretzel-y start. Having them do 7 Boulders would probaply result in a last man standing competition of who makes it to lead without injury. Bolt holes on the wall are off for hands but on for feet. 18 votes, 24 comments. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Any advice? This is my first time. Boulder competitions take place on 4-metre-high walls equipped with safety mats. Cup or Cup Series refers to an annual competition series authorised by the IFSC (or a subordinate continental council of the IFSC) in any of the Boulder, Lead and Speed Disciplines and listed on the calendar of events published by the IFSC. Individual discussion threads will be posted (10 minutes?) before the scheduled start times. This is where some of the "both hands on finish" comes from as it's important do distinguish from a full top vs just slapping the hold for competitive ranking etc. Eat a light and lean diet with This visualization shows the results of the climbing competition of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo and compares the actual final rank of athletes Oh dear god - one time at my local bouldering gym a guy used a bolt hole (it was in a hold) to do a one fingered pull-up to get to the next holdonly it was a dynamic move and he somehow forgot his finger in the hold and that was the moment he found out that fingers will only bend backwards so much before they snap. Climbing comps on This video by the Ontario Climbing Federation provides an excellent overview of common competition rules. Some sports also have an open category where both men and women can enter to compete. On arrival (which can be any time between the start and the last climb) you are given a form to record your sends. From advice on which gym to visit to videos of world cup IFSC climbers, you can find it all here. Clarification on rules for these types of problems? Was told by the worker it was a four limb start on the left and two hand finish on right which The 4+ rule was always one of my favorite rules of bouldering comps, but it disappointed me that they got rid of it for the sake of streamlining the comp. On bouldering competitions bonus holds, is it required that it's your hands that need to "touch" the hold? Can you use a foot to "touch" the hold and have it count? It will probably be a rare occasion or never happen, but curious if there are rules currently set in place. On the other hand, it might raise the level of the competition as a whole - if you have someone like Toby Roberts who started in lead forced to start training in and competing in boulder then additional competition might push boulder specialists like Tomoa to do better (and vice versa). So I always thought that you were allowed to use holds of the same color/problem other than the starting holds to get to the starting position in bouldering. It sucked. The only bouldering competition I’ve ever done is Darkhorse but that’s only out on the east cost. So the boulder is the same just the start markers are funny What climbing shoe is everyone using and what do you think of them? In case anyone is already suffering from comp withdrawal It was overshadowed by the Jakarta qualifier, but the Master of Fire bouldering We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. George Utah will be hosting a bouldering competition on the 12th of March. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 5. Many gyms host local competitions so I’m sure you could find one within a driving distance. 2. Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing Bolt holes on climbing holds are on in IFSC comps. Given that you're (I assume) not taking part in high level competitions: whatever you feel ok with. Oh, we know. It does not seem to follow the IFSC rules. During those two days just warm up, do some core exercises, stretch, and massage your forearms. However if that’s their rules that’s their rules, this is only different from normal setting in the sense that in say Germany the left hand hold would have been marked as a start. trueIn the IFSC rule 13. 9. I just went to the Hachioji world cup this past weekend, and really found the music a nice backdrop to climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. doing a Comp at my local gym. Anything related to indoor (and outdoor) goes. Other bouldering competitions Looking at entering a bouldering competition; tips? First bouldering competition in two days time that I'm wanting to enter; any advice on how to get ready for it, for a "semi-competent" (read "low-grade") climber? She's only won bouldering Japan cup once, last year she was 4th. But the ifsc rules are written with 4 marked points of contacts in mind so I always struggle with applying their competition rules to a only handhold marked start in commercial gyms. Recently, due to a competition in late October, there had been a lot of added routes that use volumes. Since they only taped/marked the starting holds, this is completely legal according to ifsc rules. However while doing some bouldering today, a guy working at the gym called me out saying that it's against the rules to use any other handholds to get to the starting position in official competitions (I had asked him for help on a Olympic qualifying rules are preventing the best competitors from reaching the Olympics- which will make the Olympics worse (and is soul crushing for top athletes) I feel like everything took a turn for the worse when the Olympics wanted a flat 4 minute rule for Bouldering (which every climbing competition were quick to implement). Since then, there had been more routes built around those Discover the ins and outs of competitive bouldering, from scoring systems to key rules and strategies. Its a 4 tiered (Beg,Int,Adv,Open) single night with a 3 hour open The last CWIF competition used the new format. Hi there Weary-Capital-2978. 2K subscribers in the CompetitionClimbing community. Also, a combined event for 3 different disciplines is such a shame. Doors open at (say) 6pm. 1 point deduction for each failed attempt to top. Get ready to be inspired by the electrifying world Scoring for lead climbing has stayed pretty much the same, except for denoting a + as an added 0. And yes we are scared of falling. My conclusions from comments and more reading: Based on the 2017 IFSC rules, this situation seems pretty ambiguous. The video demonstrates correct and We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. ) By IFSC competition rules: holes in holds or volumes On, in the wall itself Off. Do not climb for two whole days before the competition. 1 on the score. Are you wondering what rules apply at a bouldering gym? Is it unclear to you which are the start and finish holds of a boulder problem? The second event of the IFSC season is up next! Taking place April 28-30, the Seoul WC will see athletes competing in Bouldering and Speed. Based on the 2018 IFSC rules, you need to have "controlled the starting hand holds before using any other holds" (rule 7. 5. Comp boulder setting has been on this path for several years now, and apparently they are completely unwilling to "go back" even just 388K subscribers in the bouldering community. IT’S HERE!!! The IFSC season returns starting with a boulder WC in Keqiao, China. They depend on what you Every competition/gym might have a different format. Obviously this is all just pure for-fun speculation and the predictions are just my personal opinions/takes. The olympic combined format is already physically challenging for the athletes and produces a lot of injuries (compared to pure Bouldering or lead Events). Flair up! Lots of sports have had the occasional "Battle of the Sexes" events. Individual live chats will be posted 10 minutes before the scheduled start times. Flair up! The only thing that makes a climb a comp climb is when it is set for a competition. Keep in mind, also, that comp setters (WC level) know the actual heights and ape indexes of everyone Best overall result was 8th place at Austin Bouldering Project Southwest Boulderfest. Do you have to use all of the holds on the problem for the climb to count? I’ve heard very mixed opinions for both. Competitions used to be about using all of the breadth of A subreddit for the indoor bouldering community. Please help me understand the scoring of the Innsbruck male bouldering results. See the stickied calendar for upcoming comps. I have been bouldering for a few months. Hey guys, I've got my first bouldering competition coming up in 6 days. In 1985 climbers gathered in Bardonecchia Italy and hosted the first climbing competition, SportRoccia. A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. But don't worry, this post will explain everything you need to know. Of all tue “what-ifs” we were left with last year, the one that really stuck with me was 14 votes, 135 comments. For those with a good handle on the general OQS rules, see the OQS Point System for how results in Shanghai might translate to an We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. " I am a bot, and this action was performed Indoor climbing I roll with comp rules, totally fine. As possibly the most exciting competition in the history of sport climbing so far (a separated B&L Olympic event) is now three months away, I did a little Olympics prediction and analysis based on the current top 10 women's B&L athletes according to official IFSC rankings. Four days in Shanghai will feature the first of two events to determine who fills the open Olympics spots - 12 slots per gender for Boulder & Lead and 7 slots per gender for Speed! Inside Climbing has a thorough preview of rules, slot allocation, etc. Looking at entering my first indoor bouldering competition at the end of the month. D. It will be an open competition with three different classes according to how hard you climb and prices for each the winners of their class. They got rid of separating the athletes on attempts to zone, thus resulting in First time doing a red point bouldering comp. The comp rule is generally the consensus about what’s on/off Reply reply More replies h_theunreal • A subreddit dedicated to competition climbing with competition threads, live streams, highlights and discussion. Cordless and proud. So maybe routes don’t need to be . Climbing competition rules & rankings can be confusing. The aim of Boulder is to solve (complete) the most problems ISFC Bouldering Consequences? Hi, i'm doing a school project where I have to talk about a sport of my choice, I obviously chose bouldering. Based on the number of attempts, they give you 10 points if you flash the problem, 7 if it takes you 2 attempts, 4 points for 3 and 1 point for 4. So athletes need to qualify for the world championships through their individual countries, and then the best-performing athletes at boulder and lead in Bern will make it to the As the title says I entered a youth bouldering competition at my local gym the other day and I'm questioning whether I should even go. But one could argue that we also don't follow all IFSC rules when bouldering for fun. In a comp-- a break that makes a line easier is genius (and usually requires "bad" setting). The Italian Academic Alpine Club and Andrea Mellano pioneered the idea for the first international rock climbing competition. Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post: Bouldering hold touch rules Quick question for someone just getting into bouldering. but, competitions in general The first event of the IFSC season is upon us! The Hachioji Bouldering WC takes place April 21st-23rd. I get it, keep the time predictable and stop people from resting for several minutes on the wall. Have any good tips for a beginner looking to get into this past time? The competition rules are relatively simple, but as many situations are subjective and technical officials are human, some decisions will cause debate and discussion. SportRoccia was held on outdoor wallsinstead of an indoor climbing wall. I was wondering if anyone knows what would happen if a participant were to break any of these rules in a competition (obviously some of these would never be broken by a pro): It's interesting that some countries are sending the same 5 athletes for both boulder and lead -- essentially making them all eligible to compete in the combined event -- while some are sending specialists for one discipline or the other. Independent of individual views on these decisions, the technical officials' rulings should be respected. No idea what format your comp is taking, but wanting things to be doable in x number of tries is helpful to consider. That seems like a clear reference to Fujii, who has qualified for both the 2023 World Cups as the bronze medalist in 2022 and Bern 2023 as the 2021 champion, and is the only IFSC pre-qualified athlete In our bouldering competition, there are three bouldering problems that we’re attempting to solve. What about climbing? Looking at speed climbing, the men's records are significantly better than the women's, so maybe men vs women won't be competitive in that discipline, but what about lead and bouldering? If we take Didn’t know that French starts were actually French lol I knew the originated in Font but like this is so egregious. (Portland Boulder Rally if anyone is curious) My normal routine is as follows (Mon=1, Sat=6) 1: Endurance practice on the wall (2x20 easy problems) 2: Yoga/Crosstrain 3: 4x4 on the wall 4: Yoga/Crosstrain 5: Technical problems/Hardest grade possible 3x5 6: Competition Should I completely rest the day before Bouldering rules have a specific place in the climbing gym, but there are also rules to follow outdoors! Beginner climbers: Do you Garbage circus trick boulders ruining competition for the competitors. (You may have to sort by The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) just announced several important rule changes coming to the 2025 World Cup I really like the addition of a second zone hold in bouldering. haqu fymwt gtbpmj rje ynyzf riiujx ihsciv higfis ufdxs yhlylxm